Pesek, Italy/Slovenia Border to Camp Ujča 7 Sept
Despite sleeping in the car rising was as difficult as usual. After a cup of coffee and a roll we moved at about 9am towards the Yugoslav border. There was a 200m queue at the border, but the formalities were quickly completed. And inside a large new building there was a bureau de change amongst other things. $US20 gave us 245 dinar. Petrol! We had slipped through Italy without buying any at their ridiculous prices. Pulling into filling station we could choose between 98 octane Super at 5/3 or 86 octane Benzin at 4/9. You've guessed it; 40 litres of 'cooking petrol', quite adequate for a car with a 6.8:1 compression ratio. The pumps were lovely streamlined modern things but the petrol, I can smell it now, mercaptans. It has made us conscious of the leaky petrol filter gasket. And what will it do to the engine? Tomorrow morning may give us a little more insight when we try to start up. Never mind, it's fairly cheap. The price of petrol in Greece came as a bit of a shock though.
A word about Yugoslav geography. After the second world war Marshall Josip Broz Tito reunited Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia (and Kosovo), Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro and North Macedonia into one country; Yugoslavia. In fact, Yugoslavia existed between 1918 and 1992, after which it fell apart spectacularly. In 1969 we were unaware of the state borders. After Trieste we drove about 30km across the southwest corner of Slovenia before crossing into Croatia en route for Rijeka. After that the entire Yugoslav coast is in Croatia until we crossed into Montenegro about 12km before Zelenika, except for a 20km section at Neum, about halfway between Makarska and Dubrovnik where Croatia is divided by Bosnia's tiny stretch of coast.
While driving from the border to Rijeka I read all about Yugoslavia out of a guidebook bought at home. What a mixture! Before we knew it we were through what is now Slovenia and stopped in Rijeka at their excellent market, which was unfortunately just closing. Bought some fruit for lunch while we waited for the market to reopen, but contrary to popular opinion, it didn't seem inclined to. So we had a bit of a look at the docks.
The countryside strikes you as soon as you cross the border. The vegetation does not grow high and the ground has large bare white patches of barren but impressive rock. The terrain is mountainous and striking if not attractive. From Rijeka south we are on the coast road. The scenery is quite beautiful, and despite the usual haze, the island of Krk stands out. Just south of Rijeka there is a massive fjord where a large ship was at anchor stern on to the quay and on the south side there is a dusty red loading/unloading facility. Otherwise it is very attractive with the lovely village of Bakar at the head of the fjord. The road goes all the way round while the single-track railway plunges to the bottom, to the loading quay. This petrol is disgusting. Just south of Rijeka we see a floating 'dry' dock with a ship in it.
The chosen camp site, Camp Ujča, is south of Senj - the place abounds with camp sites. To get down to it we leave the road on the left and plunge down under the main road. Very small secluded site, in tiers down to the sea, with few people and no other English speakers. The camp site has only water and toilet. Ridgway rejoices about this latter and claims that his toilet seat will come into its own. We shall see. One of Brian's prized pieces of camping equipment is a toilet seat with four coffee table legs that do not appear capable of supporting his not insubstantial bulk. This camp site still exists, but looks much more prosperous now, and includes the Galathea SCUBA Diving Centre.
The first thing we do is swim. The water is quite cold, and a strong wind is blowing as it has done ever since we stopped last night near the border. The sun is out only occasionally, and altogether it is not overpoweringly hot. Usual camp chores, but Ridgers mentions figs. So off up to the fig trees, and, behold, figs. And blackberries so pud was fairly cheap and very delicious.
Next day was busy though we moved not. Again, we were going to get up early and when I awoke Ridgers claimed he'd been awake for some time but hadn't got up because the sun wasn't shining. I got up first about 8:30. When I'd persuaded him out of bed we went into Senj to shop. Postcard to Australia cost 4.05 dinar (nearly 3s) airmail. Went up to garage, principally for distilled water which is 4 dinar/litre, petrol is 1.6 dinar/litre. Breakfast then washing - many rinses needed to remove Ariel detergent. Then start painting the Wave's roof white. The car is now clean and polished, and roof has two coats of white paint on it. One more should see it finished. We were under the mistaken impression that the Middle East would be very hot, and a white roof would keep the car cooler!
We completed numerous other jobs; mainly packing and unpacking suitcase, box, briefcase, and some repair jobs; petrol filter gasket leaks etc. Finally, evening meal with more blackberries for pud. As good a meal as last night's. I investigate camera further and find damage confined mainly to winder knob which is bent. I straightened it sufficiently to operate camera but I don't think the "rev counter" will work.
English hitchhikers arrive with a French couple. They put up their tent and get a meal from the Froggies - well organised! We pack our car ready for an early departure. The weather today has been very windy and mainly overcast and cool. Sweater on all day. Hope it improves as I want to go swimming again. Just before bedtime a few drops of rain fell, but no more. The wind continued to blow in strange on and offshore gusts.
