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Overland UK to Australia 1969 - John de Figueiredo and Brian Ridgway

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Steering repairs City Walls, but where? City Walls, but where?

Thessaloniki - Take Two 1st Oct

On the road again by 8am or so and into Larissa where we met a retired Scottish doctor. We visited the bank and the market where we found storks. On towards Thessaloniki arriving at Mercedes agent at midday. On the way we saw another little railway "bug" for taking the 'gang' to work. This one was completely covered in, the first one we saw had only a roof. As we crossed the River Liakimon some cows were fording in the opposite direction. Shades of the Wild West. Just before Nea Khalkidon a lorry was lying with its cab on its side and its rear wheels upright. The chassis was bent through a right angle!

It was very warm, with the sun shining powerfully. After the Mercedes agent we had a sweet bougatza and bought a 5W bulb and a 20/5W bulb (which was wrong bayonet fitting and didn't work anyway!) Then went out to the same campsite which hadn't closed though the RAC seems to think it should have done. Set to work after lunch to remove the steering "drag link" and inspect front brakes for leaks. Both lower cylinders were found to be leaking so I changed the seals. I experienced some difficulty replacing the brake return springs. The drag link was another thing altogether.

Work was stopped in favour of replacing the brake springs, and soon it was dark, and work ceased altogether. Fortunately, New Zealand Kevin was back after having his VW towed 300 miles when the crankshaft broke. Being a garage mechanic, he was able to offer help and advice. After dinner we talked to Alan and John, two West Kirby lads (welders) on their way back from Bombay in a Corsair/Cortina for which they were offered £2,000 in India. They gave us much helpful advice and information particularly about routes. Also, on the site is Adrian, a Londoner, in a Citroen Bijou (fibreglass 2CV made for a short time only, in England) who is also on his way to Oz (plus car) going via Ceylon.

Next day the brake springs yielded to an "advanced technique". I bled the brakes and replaced the wheels. Feeble hammering and tyre levers proved ineffective on the steering drag link. Kevin's advice was sought. He appeared and organised an advanced lever and started frenzied hammering like a man possessed. Then the car wasn't high enough off the ground, so up she went some more, and lo the first joint yielded. The second proved even more troublesome. Finally (after lunch) Roger, who for $10 is coming with us to Istanbul, took matters into his own hands. The lever used was now about 10 feet long - a huge pipe projecting way out in front of the car. Roger gripped the hammer with both hands and really gave it some "welly". At last it worked.

I now got in underneath to clean up and remove the burrs with a file. I put the new drag link in place about 3pm, but a problem. The steering damper attachment was for a right-hand drive model - why should there be a difference? Decided to change it, but by now it was stuck too fast to budge so the steering damper is attached to one half of the U plate only. Sad but necessary! The steering still clicks. It's those bolts round that rubber disc still! They are taken up really tight and now all is quiet.

I haven't driven it yet, so I don't know whether we've removed any of the play or not. We fitted the new bulbs and the rear light filament doesn't work on this one either! It should be a staggered bayonet so I bought the wrong type (it still goes in but you have to get it the right way round). It's knocking off time as the wind starts to get up, and food is on the way. Must go to the village for fruit, retsina, bread and matches. Roger (Yank) offers lift on his Triumph Bonneville. In the retsina place Mrs Retsina shows she is also Mrs Ouzo. Very good and 30 Drax per kilo. This is less than 6/- a bottle.

Roger wants milk but we are told it will be 10-20 minutes. Natter to some people then back to milk fountain (cow?). Roger buys yoghourt of sheep and we try half a touloube - small sweet fried cake (touloubakia are the small version).

About to leave when milk arrives. Return with full shopping basket on back of motorbike to find Brian waiting. After dinner Brian finds a "happening" - a pop-corn-in. The main aim is not achieved but everyone had a pleasant natter and drink and Kevin entertains on his 12-string guitar. Roger retires fairly boozed after a liberal diet of ouzo and retsina. A very good night's sleep despite the wind, which by now is very strong. The tent is acting like a wind tunnel.

Maps click to enlarge

Thessaloniki to Peraia

Thessaloniki to Peraia